Each Culinary Artist Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.

Jeffrey Wells
Jeffrey Wells

A passionate literary critic and avid reader with a background in English literature, dedicated to uncovering hidden gems in contemporary fiction.